White Out!

Bleaching Hair. Scary.

Well, if you're a hair coloring fiend (and I know you are), it's more than likely you've bleached out your hair. If you've bleached your hair multiple times, than its more than likely you're fried it and ended up hairless and pissed. Oh, I've gone through it all. Smoking hair, broom ends, stretchy strands. My hair has been to hell and back, but along the way I've learned some things about bleaching.

The first step is buying the right kind of bleach. You may have to experiment with a few brands before you find the one that suits you best (I personally love L'Oreal Oreor Creme Developer used with a compatible L'Oreal powder bleach). But the real magic is in the strength of the developer. Let's discuss it.

I'm really not sure how low developers get, but anything less than a 20 volume will not life hair darker than ash blonde.

20 volume is great for blondes and light brunettes. It will get you to a white or pale yellow in a matter of minutes. For darker shades, this volume will not lift very much color, but it can lift one or two shades and give a lighter golden tone to your hair. This bleach can be used on the scalp relatively safely, but you are still at risk for chemical burns.

30 volume can be used successfully on medium to dark brown hair and lift quite a few shades depending on the brand you use. This volume can be used on lighter shades of hair, but with caution. This can be used on the scalp, but not for very long without risking chemical burns.

40 volume is great for very quick lightening on very thick or coarse hair and dark brown to black. But it cannot be used near the scalp. You WILL get chemical burns. Don't even risk it. Use this near the ends or along the length of your hair. Just remember this bleach is very strong and your hair will be prone to breakage moreso with this volume than the others.

You can use higher volumes, but for my to recommend it would be crazy. Luckily they're hard to find.

Application is perhaps, the scariest part of bleaching one's hair. I would recommend that unless you're extremely talented with the back of your own head, you get some assistance in bleaching. Otherwise you might miss a large chunk that may not look so lovely.

Mix your bleach to a consistency that is kind of like pudding or glue (easily mistaken for one another...Do not eat your bleach). Not too thick or the bleach will dry out, but runny bleach will not stick to your hair and the bleaching process will take much longer than you want it. You may want to experiment with consistancy a little before you get into bleaching your whole head. Do a test on a small amount of hair (either attached to your head or some cut off...either way it'll fall off after being bleached twice if it undergoes double application).

With the help of your assistant, section your hair off depending on how thick it is. If you've got enough hair to supply 3 other heads, the more sections the better. You just want to be able to spread the bleach evenly along the lengths of your hair and the roots.
Apply the bleach to your hair starting from the bottom up. For the first application (unless you have light blonde hair) you will need to keep the bleach about a centimeter from your scalp in order to avoid over bleaching at the roots. Once your hair is only a few shades off the desired color, apply the bleach to the roots and leave it on until your hair is the color you want it.

Tips:
If you can help it, try not to wash your hair for at least two days prior to bleaching to avoid chemical burns on the scalp and protect your hair a little more.

Those with darker and thicker hair may find that they need to do multiple applications of bleach. Bleach twice at the most in one day. After the first two bleachings, if you still want it lighter wait about a week and make sure to condition your hair well during that time.

Safe and happy bleaching, everyone.